Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Final Thoughts With No Ending

Afternoon's like these don't come around too often anymore it seems. Perhaps it's my usual schedule that keeps me away from the house until after the sun has set. Maybe it's winter's slow but impending approach. The silence in the house is hinted with the somber tones of loneliness, yet there is a conviction to it. It's more than silence. Through the jaded facade, it's peacefulness. You just have to let yourself see it. Let yourself feel it. The late afternoon sun is streaming through the southern windows. Everything it touches turns to gold. Where the silence and sunlight meet, there is perfection. A perfect harmonization - union - of two forces that often go unnoticed. Our lives carry us away every second. We operate on auto-pilot for the most part. Too busy to take a minute and notice. Too scared to confront our fears. Too lazy to come in to the present and allow ourselves to just be. Too content in our miserable well-worn paths. Misery is comfort these days. There's too much effort that goes into doing nothing. Allowing ourselves to come into balance is tedious. Perhaps the force of gravity has been tweaked over the years and our whole equilibriums are in a perpetual state of flux and conflict and we could never find our balance anyway. I don't know.

My dreams have been consistent as of late. Memories from my past converge with the unanswered questions I grapple with today. I'm searching, searching, searching. Every night I come up empty-handed, and every morning I feel exhausted. "Just let it go," I tell myself. Sometimes in my waking life my brain rushes - surges - back and forth through old scenes. It zips back, speeds forward, juts left, angles right, and comes to a jarring stop just shy of any resolution. And while I continue to search for answers to some things, I chuckle during those moments where I realize that point in my life, in the grand scheme of things, was so trivial and fleeting. I almost utter out loud, "Now what was her name?"

I've waited through all of the transitions in my life since August when I returned from my solo bicycle ride around Lake Superior for the perfect thoughts to enter my head in order to write my final post to this blog. As always life swept me away, and in the chaos, every other unresolved thing comes bursting through the doors screaming, "Don't forget about me! Don't forget about me!" All this commotion and noise distract me from the peace (and misery) of that ride. As I have explained to people recently, it was the most awesome misery I could have ever imagined. Every part of me hungers for that feeling again. Unless one has experienced similar, it's hard to even put it into words.

The last year and a half since I started this blog has seen a tremendous amount of change. Change came in the form of new experiences, doubt, fear, realizations, epiphanies, heartache, heartbreak, growth, healing, health, learning, discovering, revitalization, remembering, honoring, emerging, balancing, resolving, conquering. I'm sure the list could go on. The point is, no matter how much I think about what it was like to travel back to my birth country in August 2009, or ride my bike around the largest body of fresh water in the world this past August, out of the moment, they are memories that cannot be captured in rewind. To try and "recap" such life-changing experiences would feel wrong. There is no summary. Instead, I sit in the dimly lit dining room of my house, typing out these last words of this blog, watching the fading afternoon light. Just as my dreams allow me to remember and relive parts of my life with such vividness and clarity, so too shall this blog provide me and whoever else, a glimpse back into the many moments that have allowed me to be born into this one moment of the purest presence and clarity about where I've been, and where I am right now.

Tomorrow? Who knows...

Monday, September 26, 2011

One Month Later

It's been just over a month since I returned from my bike ride. A lot has happened. While part of me can still see that impressive landscape, feel the breeze and warmth of the sun on my skin, and hear the hum of my tires as they cycled over 1200 miles, it seemed the second I got home, literally, life swept me away. My memories of this epic journey are still there, I just have to dig deeper for them. It makes me sad to think that the realities of every day life have so much power so as to drown out that which was only but one monumental accomplishment in a whole universe of keep on keepin' on. But this bike trip, as with my trip back to Korea just over a year ago - they are both secure bases and launching points to which I know I can always return in heart and in mind. While the salience of those experiences in some ways have faded, new meanings and realizations emerge, sparked and ignited by the trajectory of my life and the connections - both familiar and new - that seem to be forming right before my very eyes.

The day after I got back from my trip, I was dumped. How was that for a welcome home? This after I had many realizations and inspirations to keep going in the relationship. Not that I was questioning it at all, it's just that relationships have always been hard for me and for once I was willing to dig my heels in and remain present no matter what because I believed I could do that for myself. The news came out of left field. I had no idea at all that there was anything wrong. Talk about apparent gaps in communication on her part! Wow! I decided at that moment, I wasn't going to give another ounce of my energy to it/her. And, I didn't and haven't. I used that, and a few other things that have been transpiring in my life that involve shitty people essentially, to completely turn this new page in the book. Once again, I left on a major journey, had much time to think, feel, process, realize, close, etc., and I came back new and different in some ways. This was my chance to, in a sense, to begin again. Now that page is turned and I feel like an artist with a new canvas before me. I have an idea of where I want my life to go. I know the tools I need to do it. And I am at peace with the fact that it will be a long process to create my masterpiece that will also evolve and change over time.

Two great journeys have connected my life in the last year. I have set sail on my next one as my doctoral program has officially started. This too will be an incredible journey that will span out over 4-5 years. I've cleaned up myself. I'm cleaning up my life and throwing out those who I put too much negative energy in, those who are too emotionally immature for me, and those who have no concept of a two-way street when it comes to friendship. One of the most salient messages that came through to me on my bike trip was the importance of human connection, and human connection that feels good. I spent alot of time alone. At times it was quite sad and quite lonely, but it made me grateful for the good connections I do have with people, and it made me aware of the work it takes to maintain those connections. So, the page is turned and I'm leaving a number of people behind. They've proved to cause more damage to me and my life than I am willing to ever let happen again. They don't feel good to my spirit and without them, I'd say my spirit feels pretty damn good!

With life taking me away, I still feel like I haven't had time to process fully my ride. With my doctoral program starting and engaging again in research, dialogue, and experiences that connect me with my adoptee identity, more feelings and questions are surfacing once again and I am feeling the connection back to Korea. I know the processing will be slow. I see every day how the impact of experiences of both of these two journeys in my life have significance to even the most mundane of activities. I know the final package will never be final. I know its shape will not be a nice, neat, tidy box. Rather, I imagine it to be some sort of globulous cluster that is always shifting in shape, density, size, and color. But all along, the evolutionary process is constant because no matter what, I will never throw my hands up in the air and say, "I quit." When we do that, it is in that moment that our evolution stops. And I will forever hear and use my sister's words, "I have seen you try harder because you believe all things are possible," and my own mantra of, "I believe I can do this," to continue to do and succeed at that which I set out to accomplish for myself, be it a trip back to my birth country, an epic bike ride, a PhD program, and whatever multitude of adventures still await me. Bring it on.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Back Home


















1 Shawyn
1 bike that I affectionately nicknamed "CT"
1 freak rainstorm that lasted 10 minutes, when I was 10 minutes from the hotel. Figures.
1 thunderstorm (2nd to the last day)
1 blown tire (which I changed standing in a ditch in aforementioned thunderstorm)
1 ride into horrendous headwind (30 mph sustained with 40+ mph gusts) on the last day.
1 dead snake
3 worms
Much sweat, tears, and a little blood
2 retirees that made the best sag team in the world
And 1 BIG lake

In 20 days of back to back cycling, with 32.4 lbs of extra weight in gear (which was 17.2 lbs more than what I trained with), I pedaled my bike 1,207.93 miles following the Lake Superior Circle Tour. I traveled 3 states (MN, WI, MI) and 1 Canadian province (Ontario).

As I sit here in my office, surrounded by all the comforts of my home, it feels odd to be back home. At the same time, it feels like the last 20 days of my life never happened. As we were driving home from Duluth, even though I had biked nearly 60 miles in terrible headwind the whole way, as the car hummed along the highway, I felt like today's bike ride never happened. Since I've been home I've gotten everything unpacked and a load of laundry done. While all feels familiar, it also feels very strange - almost like I am a stranger to my old life. People remember me, my old life remembers me, but I barely remember my old life or my old self. It's hard to describe. I'm sure the magnitude of what I accomplished will hit in a few days. In the meantime, I've just got to sit with everything, adjust, process, and heal my sore, chaffed, and exhausted body.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

The Sun Sets in Cornucopia

As I sit at the kitchen table of my cabin in Cornucopia, a very small town in Northern Wisconsin, right on the edge of the south shore of Lake Superior, the mid-evening sun is beginning to set over the lake. The rich golden lights floods through the bay windows that face north. Highway 13, the only road that runs through this town next to the lake is quiet - maybe a car or two every now and then. In one of the bedrooms I can hear the two box fans I have going in order to dry out all of my gear and bike bags. It rained most of my trip today from Ashland to Cornucopia. There's still grease caked under and around my fingernails from the blown rear tire I changed just outside of Bayfield. I had made it almost this entire trip without any rain (except for the freak 10 minute rain shower in Terrace Bay, Ontario) and no flat tires. I guess my luck had to run out sooner or later, and well, why not have both things happen today right?

It feels weird to think that this is my last night on the road. Only about 55 - 60 miles stand between me and the end to this amazing journey. While I've had moments of realization, understanding, and closure - especially in the last several days - on this last night, the end still seems so distant. Part of me is excited to return home, to see the family and friends I left behind who have been so encouraging and supportive of me for the past almost 20 days. Part of me can't really fathom what it will be like to return home. It's a similar feeling to what I had right before I left Korea. I'm having a hard time imagining my life back home and if and how it will all make sense to me again after what I've done. Another part of me isn't ready for this to be over. There are so many transformations and breakthroughs that I feel are just beginning to happen while I've been on this ride. It's almost as if my mind wants to keep riding to closure. I know that as soon as I return home, the day to day routines and tasks will sweep me away no matter how hard I try and keep this ride close to me. I worry about losing what I've gained - well, maybe not losing it, but that it becomes dulled and eventually just blends into the sometimes chaos that is the backdrop of my life.

The air in this cabin is a bit thick and seems to stands still. Time ticks by slower than normal, yet the sun sets just as quickly as it usually does. Tomorrow morning will come quickly enough. The miles I need to put in will constantly roll by. I remember when I was biking the 45 miles into Sault Ste. Marie, thus ending the Canadian leg of my trip, I took my time on purpose. I was ready to be done with Canada and halfway through my trip, at the same time, what I had endured, given, and gotten during my time on the TransCanada Highway - it had worked its way into the deepest part of who I am. It was hard to let it go. I feel similar knowing that tomorrow will bring the conclusion to the ride of my life.

I've gone beyond so much physical pain, rode with and through emotional pain, and pushed through much mental anguish to succeed at this huge goal I set out for myself just 4 months ago. Riding my bike around Lake Superior was a ride I have wanted to do for a while. I promised myself I'd do it before I turned 35. When I cross the Highway 53 bridge into Duluth tomorrow, I will have fulfilled my promise a year and 5 months ahead of schedule. Although I have sacrificed much, I have also gained that much more. I have connected so intensely with believing in myself. I've found strength and courage. I've refused to give up even when I wanted to and was so close to doing so. I've felt loneliness, grief, heartache, triumph, inspiration, and solitude. My purpose and my place have always been doing what I have been doing in each and every moment.

Tomorrow, I will be writing from the comforts of my own home, I'm sure with very mixed emotions. It's been quite a ride!

Sunday, August 21, 2011

My Dad

I think I am finding my dad on this trip. I see him in the beauty that is all around me. He is in my thoughts. His energy becomes my energy. Every mile has its own way, its own character, its own details. In that moment that I am riding through this mile, then the next, and the next - it's as if everything that that mile is contains such purpose and significance. It was meant to be as it was for me to experience. I take it in through all of my senses as I am biking through nature's canvas. As an artist, my dad frequently found his inspiration in nature. I remember the fall that he passed away, the foliage was particularly brilliant. We found our comfort in knowing he painted the trees for us that year. It was his way of letting us know that even in loss there is still beauty and memory all around. I'll never forget those fall colors.

My dad suffered from alot of health problems. Over the past couple of days, conversations and memories of him have been shared between Helene, my mom, and me. I remember his intentionality and discipline in trying to eat better and lose weight after his first heart attack. Just yesterday my mom was commenting on how much he was riding his bike right up until his sudden passing. He biked from our home in Oakdale, Minnesota to River Falls, Wisconsin one time. I remember the photo that was taken when we went to pick him up. Much like I am doing on this ride, he had a sign that showed the date, miles, and time it took him. I didn't get into biking until I was 17, a year after he died. I am just realizing the connection that my dad and I shared with our bikes as not only a form of fitness, but as a means of finding, creating, and establishing meaning, purpose, and place. We use our bikes to grow and heal ourselves. Almost 17 years after his passing, I am finally biking with my dad.

Memory:

It's the day of my dad's funeral. As is tradition, our family is the first to arrive at the church. As we step into the vestibule in the front entry way, just beyond the doors, I can see the open casket. What's left of my dad lies there. I remember when I first saw him at the funeral home during the visitation. We walked into the hall where he was. He was all alone in this big room. I wondered how long his casket had been there with no one around to offer him comfort. I remember the days leading up to his death, my dad was scared. When he died, he was home alone. I have often wondered what his final moments were like. Was he scared when it was happening or did it happen so suddenly that it was over just like that? I think for any child, to see parents or caregivers sad or scared is unnerving. These are the people that we depend on. They are our foundations, our rocks - always steady, always sturdy, and always protective. Seeing them reduced to such sadness and fear is scary. As kids, we don't yet always know what to do when our foundations are shaky. While standing at the opposite end of the room, I focused my eyes down to the other end where he was. I was scared, nervous, extremely uncomfortable, and sad, yet refusing to show emotion. My insides twisted and tumbled and wanted to jump out of my body and run away. I made my way to the front of the room with the rest of my family. As I looked at my dad lying there, all I could think was, "this doesn't even look like him." I kept staring waiting for him to open his eyes, sure I had seen his hand twitch or his eye blink. He couldn't be dead. Not my dad. This doesn't happen in my family.

At the church, we walked in. Again, I wondered how long he had been there all by himself without his family by his side. As we took our last looks, my mom said that this was the last time we would see him. I couldn't believe that sort of finality. It just couldn't happen. What do you mean we'll never see him again? I understood but I didn't understand. I didn't want it to be true. We all had some things to leave in the casket with him before it was closed. Of the few small tokens we placed on the pillow beside his head before we entered into the pastor's chambers, I remember most vividly that my sister had brought that little white teddy bear - the same one that he held on to so tightly when he was being wheeled away for heart surgery. As we sat, very cramped, in the pastor's chambers, pastor came in and said a prayer with all of us. I couldn't even concentrate on what was being said. I knew that while we were in there, just a few feet away on the other side of one not-so-sturdy wooden door, my dad's casket was being closed. I really would never see him again.

As the service went on, two of the cousins on my mom's side sang a duet version of How Great Thou Art, one of my dad's favorite hymns. I sat rigid on the hard church pew. I didn't move. I think I barely breathed. I had worked so hard for so long to hold all of my emotions in. Everywhere around me were tears, sadness, devastation. Someone had to be strong and carry this family through. I took it upon myself to be that person just hours after I had found my dad dead in our home. As our cousins sang and their harmonious voices entwined, raw with beautiful emotion, and filled every space in that church, I put my head down and cried. I did this as silently as I could filled with a mixture of feelings of sadness, guilt, embarrassment, and exhaustion. My world was shaken less than a week before when he died. Now, it was crumbling.

Not even 8 months before my dad died, his mom died. My dad gave the eulogy at her funeral. For as long as I can remember, my dad's relationship with his mom was a challenging one. As she moved from an apartment on her own to senior housing, and finally to a nursing home, he visited her weekly. He took care of all her finances, and even though their relationship took alot our of him, he was loyal and faithful to her. During the eulogy I remember listening to my dad talk about his mom - recalling special memories and speaking with such ease and grace. He made it through almost the entire thing, and then, at the end, his voice cracked, and he cried as he finished the last of his words. It was in that moment that I understood, as much as a 16 year old could understand, the love between mother and son, within family, no matter how difficult the circumstances. It was unconditional through and through.

Memory:

In the weeks, maybe even months, following my dad's funeral, we buried half of my dad's ashes and kept the other half to scatter in some virgin prairies in Southwestern Minnesota. On many of our camping trips my dad could be found sitting out in those prairies painting and sketching the wildflowers, the fields of waving grasses, and the distant landscape beyond. In my parent's bedroom, the chair with his clothes on it stayed untouched for a long time. My mom would walk around the house clutching one of his shirts burying her face in it crying and trying to keep him close by breathing in his scent. I remember evenings at the dinner table where she would sit across from my sister and me. As we all picked at our food, unable to ignore the grief and heaviness in our house, missing dad at the table with us, she held onto the brown plastic box that had the other half of my dad's cremains in it. She sobbed so hard I thought her body was going to break. I don't think either my sister or I knew what to do. We lost one parent and now, the other was falling before us. I thought all of us would be destroyed by our own grief, our collective grief, and our emotional absence in each others' lives in this time of great need.

I left for my trip 17 days ago not knowing at all what I would find on my journey. When I push off each day my mind always asks, "what will we discover today?" Most of the time it races through a million different thoughts. Some are connected, others are not. The thoughts are completely random and rarely do I ever stay on one subject or hold on to a specific memory for very long. But, the other day, the memory of being at the hospital when my dad had heart surgery stayed with me all day. Today while biking, I didn't think at all about anything having to do with my dad. It wasn't until I was journaling tonight that the memory of his funeral popped into my head. After almost 17 years, I thought I had done all my healing and moving on from his untimely death. Clearly there's some stuff still in there.

Tonight I realized that on this trip, through my experiences and what and how they are impacting those who are following along with me through my blogs and Facebook updates, that I am teaching, healing, and inspiring not only myself, but many people around me as well. There have been so many parts of this whole trip that have not been easy - seemed impossible even. I've lost count on how many times I wanted to give up. On the other hand, I have seen great beauty, experienced intense clarity and drive. I've reached a few milestones and felt the wash of victory as it radiated out of me. I've come to some hard realizations, challenged myself to push through, go further, drive harder. I've mourned the many losses I have experienced in my life. I have pep-talked myself through the newer things starting for me. I hold so dear the words that you all have shared with me. They carry me through every day. My hope is that whoever you are, wherever you are, and on whatever journey you are on, that through my words and experiences, you can share in my mantra and believe in yourself - that you can do it. And, in the words of my sister, "push harder because you believe all things are possible." In pushing myself beyond all of my physical, mental, and emotional limitations, I am finding myself and realizing that indeed all things are possible. I'm finding my dad in many ways, the crux of many of the complexities in my life, and connecting with him in ways that we couldn't when he was still alive. I am healing, finding my strength, finding my purpose, and together, my dad and I are riding side by side. I feel you dad. Thank you for a tremendous trip, and now, for leading me home.

Out of Sync

I hitched a ride the 50-some miles back to Houghton from Copper Bay. I was thankful to not have to re-bike that stretch. With a belly full of breakfast, the mid-morning sun streaming in through the windshield, and the hum of the car, I was lulled almost back to sleep. I fought it knowing in a short amount of time I would have to mount up and bike 60 miles from Houghton to Silver City. We pulled off at a roadside BP in Houghton. I loaded up my bike and set out into a strong headwind. Unfortunately this wind stayed with me almost my entire ride. I headed south to Greenland where the road turns northwest to Ontonagon before turning west to Silver City. As I plowed into the wind I knew this was going to be a long haul for a more average ride. My body was exhausted, my muscles ached from yesterday's longer ride to Copper Harbor, and the wind kept my speed around 7 mph.

It took me 5 hours and 40 minutes to bike 60 miles with an average speed of 10 mph. This is pitiful. I've done these miles in about 4 and a half hours all the rest of this trip. I felt every second of that last hour and 10 minutes everywhere. The first part of the ride was really quite hilly - nothing unmanageable, but annoying nonetheless. The last 15 miles or so were flat, but I still couldn't get my speed up to more than 11 mph. Even when I finally caught glimpses of the lake, while my mood calmed, my body still didn't want to work. Thoughts about calling for the sag wagon to come and pick me up paced back and forth in my mind before finally parking it right there in the front so I could think of nothing else. Luckily I didn't have any cell service or I probably would have called. Everything hurt and although I have been sleeping alot better since having my own space each night, I think my body is still playing catch up to the cumulative exhaustion.

I tried my best not to think about my near 90 mile ride tomorrow into Ashland, WI. My body and my mind were not in sync with each other all day. Never finding a rhythm that felt good, my emotional balance sank as well. I am 3 rides away from being home. It feels defeating to have everything feel so out of whack so close to being done. I knew that I needed to finish my ride today. I just kept pushing those pedals over and over. I quit paying attention to how slow I was going and kept my eyes on the pavement watching the broken shards of glass and pebbles roll on by. I knew as long as I kept rolling forward, I was getting closer. It's all I could do. My sister's words, "I have seen you try harder because you believed all things were possible," motivated me to keep going, to keep pushing through the pain and exhaustion, to believe that I could make it to the end of the ride for the night.

When I was about 4 miles southwest of Ontonagon I kept my eyes on my bike-o-meter. I knew I was going to break 1,000 miles today. Three miles, up a mile-long gradual incline. Two miles. Headwind. One point nine miles. More wind. As the tenths of a mile kept turning, a brief surge of energy overcame me. I passed the barn with cartoon animals painted on it with a wooden sign that said, "critters." A few more feet up the road, the numbers rolled over. One thousand point one miles. I stopped my bike. With the early evening sun beating down and the dog across the way incessantly barking at me, I took a moment to realize this accomplishment. I took out a piece of few days old pizza that I packed in my bike bag for lunch. Now luke warm from the day's sunlight heating it up, it was the best meal to celebrate this milestone. After 17 days of consecutive biking around Lake Superior, the largest fresh body of water in the world, on my last day biking through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, I rolled my bike over 1,000 miles. It was a brief moment of awesomeness on a long and difficult ride.

Tonight will be my final night in Michigan. It's taken me just as long to bike through the UP as it did to get through Canada (8 days). I'll cross into Wisconsin tomorrow at Ironwood, some 50 miles into the ride. Tomorrow's ride will be the last long ride of the trip totaling close to 90 miles. While Canada saw alot of physical pain and the victory of my one and only century ride through the mountains, Michigan saw alot of emotional rawness and breakdowns before starting the breakthrough to inspiration, strength, and gratitude. The official countdown has begun. Three days left!

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Small Towns & Jacuzzi Tubs

Right now, I can't think of anything better than what I am doing. As I am blogging, I am sitting in a very large jacuzzi bath feeling my muscles give out happy sigh of relief and thanks as the jets of warm water massage them. This is a true gift from the Universe - it only took 16 days of riding around Lake Superior, with a 76 mile ride just today to find this perfection in Copper Harbor. Who knew?

I pretty much slept through the whole night last night. Think it's the best night's sleep I've had thus far. I wasn't quite awake yet at breakfast and was a bit overwhelmed knowing today was a long ride. I have been spoiled since my century ride from Wawa to Batchawana Bay in Canada. All my rides since then have been around 55 - 60 miles. It's funny, back home, a 30-miler was a good workout for the day. Now, 60 miles has become the norm! Packed and ready to go around 10:45am, I set out for Copper Harbor, which I believe is the northern most point of Michigan.

The ride was fine until Houghton - home of Michigan Technological University, where my uncle went to school. As I rode through town, alot of the students were moving back to campus getting ready to start the year. Flashbacks from my first year of college at UW-River Falls poured into my head as well as the week leading up to school beginning at the University of Minnesota. I felt excited and a little sad watching the students and their families bustling around campus. A new school year is just around the corner, and for first year students, I'm sure this is an exciting time. I felt a bit sad knowing that this also means that summer is almost over. Perhaps I wouldn't have had such a reaction if I weren't going to be a student for the first time in 6 years this year as well. I am nervous about starting my doctoral program. It seems like such a big deal. It IS a big deal! Soon enough I'll be well on my way and in 4 years, you can call me doctor!

As I headed out of Houghton, bound for Hancock, I was faced with a very steep, very windy road that led out of town. I would compare this to biking up the hills of Duluth or Stillwater, Minnesota for those of you familiar with the area. Not quite San Francisco hills, but bad enough for sure. The view from the top was great. I could see all of Houghton nestled below on the water's edge. Beautiful. I continued for about 10 more miles to the small town of Calumet. I pulled over at an abandoned gas station. The storefront was boarded up. The gas pumps were boarded up. I sat down against one of the pumps and ate my lunch - much needed fuel at that time. I watched the cars traveling in and out of town. As the sweat evaporated from my body and the decent headwind continually cooled me, I eventually grew cold sitting in the shade.

It was interesting to notice, once I got going again, how on either end of these small towns there are blocks of houses that have seen better days, trashy unkempt yards, and broken down rusty vehicles. The poverty is clear. Once in town, every house has a white porch and flies the American flag. Large SUVs and boats sit patiently in each driveway - all of which are nicely paved by the way. The quiet streets are creatively named - Church St. with the church on it, School St. with the school, Golf Course Rd., with the golf course. It makes sense. On the other end of town, the tidy and cozy homes change once again to run-down dilapidated old structures. Sadness and years of wear seeps from every seam. It's almost as if you can hear them moaning and sighing heavily with exhaustion as they creak and shift under their weight. I passed through several towns like this today on my ride, each time noticing the obvious division of class.

A few miles north of Eagle Harbor, some 56 miles into the ride, Highway 41 changed. It turned into a very narrow single lane road with no shoulder. It snaked its way up and around the Keweenaw Mountain. There was rarely a section more than maybe 50 feet where the road was straight. Constant curves and small but steep and frequent hills guided me up the mountain. I met an older gentleman while biking. It was just him on a bike, no panniers or anything. He saw all my bags and asked where I was headed. We had a nice chat about where I'd been and where I'm headed to. He did the same route back I think sometime in the early 90s...maybe late 80s. He desperately wanted to give me some information on more scenic routes coming into Silver City, which is my destination tomorrow, and Ashland and Bayfield, which will be the following two days. We climbed to the top of a hill and pulled off the road. I can't remember what he told me. He wanted to mark up my map. I told him I didn't mind, but he seemed reluctant. I found it funny. He was kind of a weasily looking guy - very skinny with a weasily face - like the animal. Every time he spoke, some new particle flew out of his mouth. He was very friendly and I enjoyed our chat, although admittedly, I was distracted by the projectiles careening out of him as he spoke. I did my best to stay out of their flight pattern.

At the bottom of the hill in Copper Harbor he was waiting for me at the stop sign. He wanted to tell me about Brockway Mountain a few miles up the road. He said it had great views of the lake. The hill was a 23% incline so he suggested driving. As he turned to look at me, I could see one of his oral particles had affixed itself to the side of his mouth. I couldn't bring myself to tell him to wipe it off. Afterall, it was who he had become to me after our exchange at the top of the hill. As he continued to talk, all excited about Brockway, a small, but very noticeable, brownish drip of saliva formed at the corner of his mouth and began to run down his face. He must have been munching on some granola or an energy bar - at least that's what I told myself. I have no idea what his name is, but he looked like a Larry - Larry in his spandex shorts and white Schwinn bike cap that made is head look even tinier on his already skinny body. Thank you Larry for unabashedly bringing some humor and character to my day!

Finally I had reached Copper Harbor. My mom was about to lose her mind with worry. Apparently they never saw me on the road the whole way. I told them I bet they passed me in Calumet where I had pulled off for lunch. It was the only time I had been off the road. This whole trip I have always felt confident and comfortable navigating my way. I understand a mother's worry the best I can, but so far *knock on wood* things have been pretty easy navigation wise - and weather-wise for that matter *knock on wood again.* I opened the door to my hotel room, and aside from it being huge, I noticed the jacuzzi tub in the bathroom. Perfection! Tomorrow I'll have a shorter ride - 56 miles from Houghton to Silver City. I am hoping for some pasta there to carbo load for my near 90 mile ride the following day into Ashland, Wisconsin. It will be my last long ride. I'm almost home!