Small Towns & Jacuzzi Tubs

Right now, I can't think of anything better than what I am doing. As I am blogging, I am sitting in a very large jacuzzi bath feeling my muscles give out happy sigh of relief and thanks as the jets of warm water massage them. This is a true gift from the Universe - it only took 16 days of riding around Lake Superior, with a 76 mile ride just today to find this perfection in Copper Harbor. Who knew?

I pretty much slept through the whole night last night. Think it's the best night's sleep I've had thus far. I wasn't quite awake yet at breakfast and was a bit overwhelmed knowing today was a long ride. I have been spoiled since my century ride from Wawa to Batchawana Bay in Canada. All my rides since then have been around 55 - 60 miles. It's funny, back home, a 30-miler was a good workout for the day. Now, 60 miles has become the norm! Packed and ready to go around 10:45am, I set out for Copper Harbor, which I believe is the northern most point of Michigan.

The ride was fine until Houghton - home of Michigan Technological University, where my uncle went to school. As I rode through town, alot of the students were moving back to campus getting ready to start the year. Flashbacks from my first year of college at UW-River Falls poured into my head as well as the week leading up to school beginning at the University of Minnesota. I felt excited and a little sad watching the students and their families bustling around campus. A new school year is just around the corner, and for first year students, I'm sure this is an exciting time. I felt a bit sad knowing that this also means that summer is almost over. Perhaps I wouldn't have had such a reaction if I weren't going to be a student for the first time in 6 years this year as well. I am nervous about starting my doctoral program. It seems like such a big deal. It IS a big deal! Soon enough I'll be well on my way and in 4 years, you can call me doctor!

As I headed out of Houghton, bound for Hancock, I was faced with a very steep, very windy road that led out of town. I would compare this to biking up the hills of Duluth or Stillwater, Minnesota for those of you familiar with the area. Not quite San Francisco hills, but bad enough for sure. The view from the top was great. I could see all of Houghton nestled below on the water's edge. Beautiful. I continued for about 10 more miles to the small town of Calumet. I pulled over at an abandoned gas station. The storefront was boarded up. The gas pumps were boarded up. I sat down against one of the pumps and ate my lunch - much needed fuel at that time. I watched the cars traveling in and out of town. As the sweat evaporated from my body and the decent headwind continually cooled me, I eventually grew cold sitting in the shade.

It was interesting to notice, once I got going again, how on either end of these small towns there are blocks of houses that have seen better days, trashy unkempt yards, and broken down rusty vehicles. The poverty is clear. Once in town, every house has a white porch and flies the American flag. Large SUVs and boats sit patiently in each driveway - all of which are nicely paved by the way. The quiet streets are creatively named - Church St. with the church on it, School St. with the school, Golf Course Rd., with the golf course. It makes sense. On the other end of town, the tidy and cozy homes change once again to run-down dilapidated old structures. Sadness and years of wear seeps from every seam. It's almost as if you can hear them moaning and sighing heavily with exhaustion as they creak and shift under their weight. I passed through several towns like this today on my ride, each time noticing the obvious division of class.

A few miles north of Eagle Harbor, some 56 miles into the ride, Highway 41 changed. It turned into a very narrow single lane road with no shoulder. It snaked its way up and around the Keweenaw Mountain. There was rarely a section more than maybe 50 feet where the road was straight. Constant curves and small but steep and frequent hills guided me up the mountain. I met an older gentleman while biking. It was just him on a bike, no panniers or anything. He saw all my bags and asked where I was headed. We had a nice chat about where I'd been and where I'm headed to. He did the same route back I think sometime in the early 90s...maybe late 80s. He desperately wanted to give me some information on more scenic routes coming into Silver City, which is my destination tomorrow, and Ashland and Bayfield, which will be the following two days. We climbed to the top of a hill and pulled off the road. I can't remember what he told me. He wanted to mark up my map. I told him I didn't mind, but he seemed reluctant. I found it funny. He was kind of a weasily looking guy - very skinny with a weasily face - like the animal. Every time he spoke, some new particle flew out of his mouth. He was very friendly and I enjoyed our chat, although admittedly, I was distracted by the projectiles careening out of him as he spoke. I did my best to stay out of their flight pattern.

At the bottom of the hill in Copper Harbor he was waiting for me at the stop sign. He wanted to tell me about Brockway Mountain a few miles up the road. He said it had great views of the lake. The hill was a 23% incline so he suggested driving. As he turned to look at me, I could see one of his oral particles had affixed itself to the side of his mouth. I couldn't bring myself to tell him to wipe it off. Afterall, it was who he had become to me after our exchange at the top of the hill. As he continued to talk, all excited about Brockway, a small, but very noticeable, brownish drip of saliva formed at the corner of his mouth and began to run down his face. He must have been munching on some granola or an energy bar - at least that's what I told myself. I have no idea what his name is, but he looked like a Larry - Larry in his spandex shorts and white Schwinn bike cap that made is head look even tinier on his already skinny body. Thank you Larry for unabashedly bringing some humor and character to my day!

Finally I had reached Copper Harbor. My mom was about to lose her mind with worry. Apparently they never saw me on the road the whole way. I told them I bet they passed me in Calumet where I had pulled off for lunch. It was the only time I had been off the road. This whole trip I have always felt confident and comfortable navigating my way. I understand a mother's worry the best I can, but so far *knock on wood* things have been pretty easy navigation wise - and weather-wise for that matter *knock on wood again.* I opened the door to my hotel room, and aside from it being huge, I noticed the jacuzzi tub in the bathroom. Perfection! Tomorrow I'll have a shorter ride - 56 miles from Houghton to Silver City. I am hoping for some pasta there to carbo load for my near 90 mile ride the following day into Ashland, Wisconsin. It will be my last long ride. I'm almost home!